A seismic shift

17 April 2009



Tim Corvin discusses how packaging design can bring maximum perceived value for brands at minimum cost


In contrast to what may be regarded as logical, in times of recession in the past luxury goods have performed quite well. This is mainly because people like to treat themselves occasionally and modestly to lift the overall gloom. However, we are not currently experiencing ‘normal’ recession. With such a seismic economic shift, austerity has become fashionable itself. For the cosmetics category, which is almost defined as being ostentatious, the economy and changed consumer attitudes present new and unique challenges.

The way that packaging is designed and manufactured has a key role to play in overcoming the paradox between restrained branding budgets, restricted consumer spend and the desire for personal pampering. Although consumers may be shifting their spends from the premium cosmetic brands to the mass market alternatives, they still want to feel they are buying quality products and experiencing some sort of self indulgence, even if it’s no longer defined by the price they’re paying.

In this mass market segment, achieving the correct and affordable cost of goods is crucial as budget-conscious brand managers do not have the luxury to spend on expensive materials or small scale production methods. This means the pack design has to be smart; it has to achieve maximum perceived value at minimum cost; it must have a high quality appearance yet run down a high speed filling line.

The quality of mass market products is getting better. By way of example, recent consumer tests demonstrated that a US$30 product was as good, if not better than, a US$300 product. Many people will recall the queue outside Boots, the UK’s leading pharmacy and health retailer, when BBC’s Panorama proved that its own brand of anti-aging cosmetic was superior compared to a star-endorsed premium, expensive brand.

However, consumers want confirmation when they see a product on the shelf; they want to be sure that they are buying a high quality product. This is where packaging design plays a crucial role. It not only has to capture, emphasise and communicate the quality of the product, but should do this in a cost-effective way that will allow the brand to be sold at a competitive price.

For example, Procter & Gamble’s Cover Girl Mascara has brushes that are injection moulded soft touch materials engineered to deliver the desired effect. The packaging for this product needed to highlight this fact and focus the consumer attention towards the brush. So, we designed a packaging with a throw-away cap, making the brush visible. We created a multi-layered pack that has a clear layer over translucent material to create a premium look, which is more often associated with prestige brands like Dior or Estée Lauder.

But the role of packaging doesn’t stop here. The barrier to entry in the cosmetics market is huge – it requires millions in terms of media spend to even start registering the brand or the product with the consumers. In these cash strapped times, advertising budgets are being cut dramatically, even in the cosmetics industry where ‘selling the fantasy’ is so important.

Packaging, therefore, has a dual function and can almost be considered as ‘free media’. Yes, packaging is media and, most importantly, it’s present right at the point where consumers make their purchasing decisions. A packaging design that captures the essence of the brand and appeals to the emotional and rational sides of the brain is the most effective.

Our design of the Hugo Boss SKIN packaging is a powerful example. We identified an opportunity for Boss to become the leading, purely masculine, skincare brand. So we created a positioning based on ‘Technical Mastery’, which not only builds on the provenance of the parent brand, but also reflects the quality of the products. It references male interests such as cars and engineering. This brand essence is communicated through the brand identity – strong typography; via the packaging design with aluminium casing, detailed with embossed xxxxx; and also in how the products are delivered in a functional, efficient pump action.

So even in these difficult market conditions, well designed packaging can help brand owners keep packaging costs under control while still delivering ‘consumer pleasure and brand performance’.

Tim Corvin is Webb Scarlett deVlam’s Marketing Director


Cover Girl mascara packaging was designed to draw consumer attention to the specially designed brush Hugo Boss SKIN packaging design speaks of 'technical mastery'

Hugo Boss SKIN packaging design speaks of 'technical mastery' Hugo Boss SKIN packaging design speaks of 'technical mastery'
Cover Girl mascara packaging was designed to draw consumer attention to the specially designed brush Cover Girl mascara packaging was designed to draw consumer attention to the specially designed brush


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